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Cantina Rooftop head bartender Nelson Lemus has earned his business credentials — both at school and at home. With a degree in business administration from the University Albert Einstein in San Salvador under his belt, he stepped behind the bar of his parents’ restaurant and started managing it at just 21 years old. “I became fascinated by the endless possibilities of mixing flavors and ingredients,” he says. After four years of managing bars, his passion revealed itself, and he moved to NYC to take on more roles within the industry, including that of head bartender at Hell’s Kitchen hangout Cantina Rooftop. Here, the El Salvador native chats about his Latin American upbringing, his two biggest mentors, and the moment he realized he was a New Yorker.
BoozeMenus: What went through your mind in creating the drinks list at Cantina Rooftop?
Nelson Lemus: I wanted to bring a Latin flavor-inspired menu by way of tropical fruits and spices. I paired them with dominant Latin American spirits, such as tequilas and mezcals, to enhance the Latin flavors. The menu catered to every plate, but the cocktails have maintained a strong Latin feel to them.
BM: Which was the trickiest cocktail to perfect?
NL: The classics are always the trickiest. The measurements are given and the steps of how to do them are there. They say “don’t fix what’s not broken,” and classic drinks are classic for a reason. But putting a bit of your twist into them and then having people taste it is the tricky part, and you can only hope they like the change.
BM: How has your upbringing in El Salvador influenced your style of bartending?
NL: In El Salvador, we consume a variety of exotic fruits with interesting colors and flavors, as well as powerful spices. Similar fruits and spices circulate and are used in most Latin American countries; however, their names and usage might be different. As for me, growing up with this wide array has enabled me to have a more sophisticated palate.
BM: What's your favorite margarita recipe on the menu?
NL: The margarita is a classic cocktail and not all of our tequila drinks are considered margaritas. But my favorite all depends on the mood I am in — sometimes I want it more sweet, sometimes bitter, and sometimes more fruity, but if I have to choose one on our menu it will be the "charro" I love the combination of mezcal, coffee-infused Campari, and Cynar with hints of clove.
BM: What time do you set your alarm for in the morning, and what's the first thing you do when you leave your apartment?
NL: I get up at 7am, and the first thing I do when I leave the apartment is hit the gym.
BM: Who has been an influence for you in this industry?
NL: I've had many mentors, but two stand out the most: Juan Coronado and Dushan Zaric. Both masters speak with such passion in regards to the industry that they have become inspirational figures within the community. Both mentorships have contributed to my success and pursuit to become a better bartender. I have learned on the one hand a Latin and Asian forward technique and on the other, I have been exposed to a more American and European one. Both helped me to gain a better understanding of the philosophies of bartending, such as teamwork, labor, and wisdom. But most importantly, to always maintain a high standard at work. I have taken these teachings to heart, so much so that my consulting company, Bar Theory, highly incorporates these practices.
BM: Where's the last place you traveled that inspired you?
NL: Brazil. I was there for the World Cup in 2014, thanks to Leblon Cachaca. I was part of the team that won a worldwide competition of bartenders, so we toured Brazil getting to know the culture, food, cachaca and other spirits, and we shared time with the best bartenders in the world.
BM: What are your three go-to tequilas or mezcals?
•Cabeza Tequila is all about balance. The soft, sweet agave notes there on the entry are perfectly balanced by pepper and spice. It’s sweet at the beginning and it gently explodes. It’s the best tequila for mixing cocktails, and it’s perfect on its own.
•Casa Dragones Joven. This sipping tequila is not for mixing cocktails. The extremely smooth, floral, and almost creamy finish was something I did not expect. New flavors were present with each sip. It gets a hint of extra-aged tequila that is added to the blend, which elongates the finish.
•Ilegal Mezcal Joven. This packs unaged, deep agave aromas. There are hints of green apple, citrus and white pepper, which bear lingering heat and sweet agave. It’s ideal for cocktails and perfect on its own.
BM: When did you feel like you had become a "New Yorker?" What did you need to experience in order to feel like you could acquire such a title?
NL: I’ve been in New York for more then 15 years. It’s hard to point out which moment makes you a New Yorker. There so many, I think. I have to say, the one that stands out the most for me is the moment you are going through a rough time and you have little to no money and your primary source of food is the dollar slice or looking forward to family meal on your shift. I believe that if you haven't survived on dollar pizzas, you can't call yourself a New Yorker.
BM: What music is playing when you're working?
NL: The music varies depending on the environment, but basically it’s Latin music with funk, hip-hop and electronic music. It gets my juices flowing. It gets me ready for the day ahead.
By Nicole Schnitzler
(Photos by Leonardo Correa | From left: Cantina Rooftop; Nelson Lemus; Cielo Rojo)