Iowa native Obadiah Lack worked his way through restaurants in Minneapolis and Chicago before pursuing his culinary dreams at the Institute of Culinary Education in NYC. Upon his first post-school job at L’asso, though, he realized he wanted to be on the other side of the kitchen doors. “I would see the bartenders making cocktails, joking around and having fun, and I wanted to be out there making cocktails, engaging with the customers and not stuck in a hot kitchen,” he says. Lately his work can be found at The Randolph at Broome and Randolph Brooklyn, where a new drink list boasts fall flavors in classic cocktail form. Here, he chats about the key to a solid seasonal menu, the behind the bar season he loves most, and just one fall ingredient you must try now.
BoozeMenus: How would you describe your approach behind the bar?
Obadiah Lack: I would say my approach is simple. My goal is always to put out a great product and tailor it for anyone that comes in. I want everyone to be happy with their cocktail.
BM: What goes into the development of a new, seasonal cocktail list?
OL: I always try to combine and preserve classic techniques, and give a tip of the hat to classic recipes. However, it’s important to keep in mind that we have better ingredients and more exciting flavors than barmen did in the 1920s, and to take advantage of that. I always like to use the unusual flavors that aren’t available all year round. That’s the key to a good seasonal menu.
BM: Which cocktail was the first one you conceived of, and what was its inspiration?
OL: It was probably the Don't Go Chasin’ Watermelons, with Holland-infused tequila, Hellfire shrub bitters, lime, agave, and watermelon juice with a Tajin rim. During the summer we would do shots of Holland-infused tequila and a watermelon juice with Tajin on the rim of the shot glass. It was such a hit that we made it in a larger format for friends, and it eventually went on the menu.
BM: What cocktail do you think crowds will like the most? Conversely, which one do you hope they like the most?
OL: I think typically an experienced bartender can get a read on a crowd off the bat. So depending on the vibe they give off, I can usually recommend something with a few pointers from them. But of course, the one I hope they like the most is the most recent one I've come up with.
BM: Which season is your favorite to work with when it comes to bartending?
OL: It’s definitely spring and summer. Being in New York, that's when we have the biggest plethora of produce and interesting, fresh ingredients. It also seems to be the time of year people are open to trying something new when they go out.
BM: What's a fall ingredient that's often overlooked that you think should get more play?
OL: Most fall ingredients are overlooked. Bartenders typically go for the obvious, because it's safe, and things like pumpkin, cinnamon and maple do taste good. But you miss out on the opportunity to give someone something they haven't tasted before. I think our gooseberry cocktail, Talk To Me Goose, is a good example. It’s accessible, but unusual.
BM: Where do you find inspiration?
OL: I’m lucky enough to be surrounded by creative friends with good palates. We bounce ideas off of each other and try to push the envelope.
BM: What's your go-to cocktail on any given night?
OL: A good sipping tequila with good ice is my go-to. I like drinking a Agavoni — a tequila negroni — a Mexican beer, and a shot of tequila.
BM: How do you find yourself heightening flavor profiles while continuing to honor the classics?
OL: Something as simple as swapping out bitters can completely change a flavor profile of a drink. But as far as classics go, it can be fun to swap out ingredients for things we have now that they didn't have access to in the 1920s, such as amaros, liqueurs, and so on. The items we have now are infinitely more than what was available 100 years ago or even 40 years ago. It's fun to think, “would this classic cocktail be the same recipe if they had the same bottles on hand? Maybe I can improve on it…”
By Nicole Schnitzler
(Photo Credit: Randolph Group | From Left: Talk To Me Goose Cocktail; Interior; Obadiah Lack)