SUSHI ROXX bar director Gary Wallach spent ages 14 to 23 pursuing his first passion: music. He bypassed college to play festivals and venues across the country, and it was then that he first encountered the world of hospitality. “People all over the country took care of my band, time and time again,” he says. “They would take us in with ease, giving us food, shelter — even gas money.” Wallach carried those experiences with him for his first restaurant gig, which he took on to support his music career. Soon enough, though, he fell in love with the bar and its storytelling potential. “At the end of the day it's our responsibility to tell these amazing stories that sit behind us in the form of a bottle,” he says. Here, the south Queens native chats about his bartending theme song, the nickname that’s stuck (sort of), and that time that Thanksgiving came early.
BoozeMenus: How do you put your signature touch on each of your cocktails?
Gary Wallach: I try to put my experiences in the glass. Being in New York we have so much access to amazing items. It gives us the opportunity to keep things interesting on a production level but connecting people via their senses is where I try to make the cocktail stand out. I use my past experiences to connect to the cocktail. My hope is when a guest tastes their drink, it gives them the ability to pull from their past and tell me a story.
BM: What's your favorite time of the shift?
GW: My favorite part in the shift is right before the room seats. At SUSHI ROXX we have a wonderful lounge that you can come to anytime; however, our main room begins seating at 6:30pm. So when I work the service bar I'm able to stay in our lounge area and watch the room fill up before the dining room seats. I do my best to make connections and give people advice on the menu. I enjoy seeing people come in not knowing what to experience. As a new restaurant that's steadily growing, that only lasts so long.
BM: What's your favorite day of the week to work?
GW: I wouldn't say I have a favorite day but that I enjoy working earlier in the week. It's usually the time where I get to work on other projects behind the bar or really speak in depth to a guest. Thursday through Saturday is per usual, head in the well, cranking cocktails out all night type shifts.
BM: What cocktail was the most fun to create?
GW: I recently created a cocktail for the SUSHI ROXX menu using fresh cranberries, togorashi, and fall spices. While trying to work out the balance of the syrup the kitchen became filled with an overwhelming Thanksgiving smell. Everyone who walked through noticed it. It's fun to see people react to something as simple as syrup prep.
BM: Who has been a mentor for you in this industry?
GW: I have been lucky to meet a lot of talented people in my day and call them my mentors. Jason Apfelbaum, the owner of SUSHI ROXX and I met when I worked at the then Mondrian Soho. He was so good at keeping me motivated and moving forward. He was also great and continues to be so when it comes to the business of the bar world. From a creative stand point, I was lucky to be taught by the likes of Jason Cousins. He’s now a representative for Mount Gay Rum, The Botanist Gin, and Bruichladdich Scotch, and I was lucky to have him as my bar manager. The depth of his knowledge and understanding of creating cocktails are most likely only matched by the people who taught him. Along with a stint working for Steve Olson, and listening to his fantastic stories with such detail, I would say these people were the most influential by far.
BM: If you could grab drinks with any one person anywhere in the world, who would it be, where would it be, and what are the drinks?
GW: As much as I'd love to say someone dead or famous here, the truth is my girlfriend Carolina is who I'd want to drink with. Probably at a bar that makes tiki-style drinks in coconuts and pineapples or something, on a secluded beach far, far away. New York is so much of a hustle; now and then all you need are the people you love and some peace and quiet.
BM: Can you tell us about a great conversation you've had behind the stick recently?
GW: I'm not sure if this is much of a conversation but more or less the result of great conversations. I had a guest named Mark who stayed at a hotel I worked at downtown. I became so friendly with him and his wife that we would try to stay in touch when they went back to their home in Toronto. Through changing jobs and lives being busy we ended up losing touch. But recently, Mark came to New York to watch the Toronto Blue Jays play the New York Yankees, and he specifically tracked me down at SUSHI ROXX and stayed at a hotel nearby just so he could spend time at the new bar. When he showed up, I practically jumped into his arms. That was the result of creating true friendships via the bar.
BM: What's a nickname you have at work - or outside of work?
GW: A long time ago I was looking for a great brand for myself to go by. My stage name is Gary Gordon Wallach, and a friend in the music business would always say, "what up GGW"? Since then I have always tried to stick with it, including social media (@whatupggw), but I'm not sure it's caught on yet. Oh well — can't give up on it now.
BM: If you could have a theme song to play while bartending, what would it be?
GW: I feel like my music taste is ever changing; however, right now I'd want to hear Killer Whales by Small Pools. It has that synthy upbeat pop goodness that people love. If not that, then any 80s hair metal will do.
BM: When's the last time you sent someone drinks on the house, and what prompted it?
GW: This past Saturday a guest was sitting at the closest table to the service bar inside SUSHI ROXX. He stood up during the mid point of his meal and congratulated me on my attention to detail despite how busy I was. He said he could feel how much the entire staff and I care about the quality of our product. I sent over some shots as a thank you. A thank you can be all you need to get through a busy shift.
By Nicole Schnitzler
(Photos From Left: Cobra Kai cocktail; Gary Wallach; Interior by Andrew Werner)