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Behind The Bar ~ Harding's

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Behind The Bar ~ Harding's

Growing up, Harding’s bartender Derrick Turner had high hopes of becoming a chef. All he had to do was break the news to his mother, who had different ambitions for him: veterinary school. “Now if expressions could kill, I wouldn't be here talking to you now,” he says. “But I think she knew where my heart truly was.” Post-school and in the thick of debt from even further education (i.e. The School of Visual Arts), he needed a gig — fast. When a friend told him of a barback position in Cobble Hill, he was in. “I was outside of the limelight, but always closely observing what the bartenders were doing,” he recalls. “I knew there would come a day that someone would call off or quit, and when that day came, I never looked back.” Here, the Coney Island native shares with us the best time of his shift, his favorite kinds of guests, and the cocktail that will always be so much more to him than just a cocktail.

BoozeMenus: How would you describe your approach behind the bar?

Derrick Turner: Tending is an interesting thing because it’s so easy to get into, but so hard to master. My approach is easy. You treat the customer as if they are a guest in your house, at your party. It’s that simple. We've all thrown a party at one point in our lives, and we all want our guests to be comfortable. Make them happy, and they'll always come back. 

BM: What is your favorite time of a shift?

DT: The beginning of a shift. The best way I can describe it is like clutching the gears to go faster. When you first come in, you're not moving that fast, but you’re still moving. People start trickling into the bar, you clutch again, and you move faster. When the sun goes down, the bar is full and you're running at 210 miles per hour — and I've never felt better.

BM: What’s an ingredient, tool, or technique that you’ve been loving lately?

DT: Lately I have been going crazy over produce. If you can eat it, I want to use it in a cocktail. There’s a genius by the name of Matthew Biancaniello, who has revamped my outlook as to how to use unconventional produce in cocktails.  

BM: Who’s someone that you’d love to make a drink for?

DT: It’s always the most entertaining to make drinks for people on Tinder dates. How do I know it’s a Tinder date, you ask? I eavesdrop — bartenders are always listening. Tinder dates are fun because I'm the bridge between the two people. They don't know each other, I don't know them, so we’re all on common ground.

BM: Which of the original cocktails on the menu are you most proud of, and why?

DT: The Dirty 6. I'm a tequila guy, and I wanted to make something that was refreshing and recognizable, but different. I combined pineapple, pink peppercorns, reposado tequila, lime, and agave. It’s a glorified margarita but it’s like nothing you've had before.

BM: What's a favorite story or inspiration behind one of the cocktails?

DT: One of the first cocktails I ever created was the Black Forest. Black Forest was a cake with berries that my stepdad used to buy me for my birthday. Pure deliciousness. After his passing in the 9/11 attacks, I wanted to make something to remember him by. And that was the beginning of the cocktail. 

BM: Do you have any go-to behind the bar tricks or techniques?

DT: Ask anyone what I love to play with, and 90% of them will say fire. I’ve always had a fascination with flames, so I've inducted it into my bartending goodie bag. Smoking a cocktail, or even the ice, creates a complex profile that many bartenders are now adopting.

BM: What’s something you hope to learn over the next year - whether it be related or unrelated to bartending?

DT: Bartending for almost 11 years has taught me a lot — I’ve learned a lot about myself. But the behind the scenes as to how a restaurant ticks is something that I need to learn — the small things and how to successfully keep things flowing. I understand how to make it happen, but I would like to learn every in and out of all possible situations.

BM: What’s your favorite NYC neighborhood to spend a day in, and what are you doing? 

DT: Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass or D.U.M.B.O is my favorite neighborhood to visit. It’s always scenic, but also busy at all times. I’ve been coming to this neighborhood before it was the bustling community it is today. Do yourself a favor and visit it sometime. 

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Interior, Derrick Turner; Cocktail)


Behind The Bar ~ Green Fig

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Behind The Bar ~ Green Fig

Green Fig beverage manager Zack Khalifa had quite the nomadic upbringing. “I’ve lived in Peru, Venezuela, Germany, and here in USA,” he says. No matter the country, though, his restaurant experiences have always been centered around the bar. “My fascination with restaurants continues to be rooted from behind the bar,” he notes. That’s exactly where Khalifa can be found these days — behind the bar at YOTEL’s Green Fig restaurant, where he serves up an array of aromatic cocktails that highlight Middle Eastern and Mediterranean ingredients. Here, the Washington, D.C. transplant chats with us about why details matter, the behind the bar technique he’s loving, and the food and drink pairing that will never disappoint.

BoozeMenus: What’s your approach behind the bar?

Zack Khalifa: I try to make every detail count.  You have to remember that the experience is just as important as the quality of the drink.  It’s the glue that ties everything together.   

BM: What cocktail do you find yourself making the most of these days?

ZK: During the summer we tend to make a lot of mojitos and rum drinks.  We try to complement that trend with some fruity and acidic themed cocktails, too. With the heat of the summer, it’s important that a cocktail doesn’t carry much weight.     

BM: What was the biggest drinking trend you were seeing in D.C. versus what you’re seeing now in NYC?

ZK: I think one of the biggest drinking trends universally right now is the sourcing of local ingredients. Many places in Washington D.C. like Derek Brown’s Columbia Room have started to grow their own herbs.  I see the same thing happening at places in New York. I have also been seeing some forgotten classic cocktails popping up on menus lately.

BM: Who serves as a role model in your life?

ZK: I’ve really been looking closely at Derek Brown, an entrepreneur in the D.C. restaurant scene.  At all  of his bars you find a certain romance that goes with each cocktail.  His appreciation for the history of cocktails and the craftsmanship he promotes is something I strongly support.

BM: Where can you most likely be found post-shift, and what are you ordering?

ZK: If I am out to relax, I am usually ordering a shot and a beer at a local dive bar.

BM: What’s the last amazing food and drink experience you’ve had?

ZK: I really enjoyed the cocktails offered at Burke and Wills on the West Side.  It has a cool speakeasy-like feel with excellent cocktails, along with a great Australian wine list. 

BM: What are the pros to working at a restaurant in a hotel?

ZK: I like that you get to meet people visiting from all over the world — I like to hear their takes on the big city.  

BM: Are there any techniques you're loving right now? 

ZK: I am really into the fat washing of spirits.  It brings out a whole other complexity in a cocktail.

BM: What’s the best cocktail and food pairing you’ve tried there recently?

ZK: I really enjoy Green Fig’s Rosewater Martini (vodka, rosewater, lemon juice) with the cauliflower dish (Cantine Cauliflower with green tahini, mint, “green fire,” toasted almonds, za’atar, feta, cilantro). The acidity that accompanies the cocktail really cuts through the herbaceous components of the cauliflower nicely.  

BM: If you could have a bartender superpower, what would it be?

ZK: Reading people’s minds!

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Dining Room & Lounge by @RatedRuwan; Zack Khalifa by @RatedRuwan; Rosewater Martini by @RatedRuwan)

Behind The Bar ~ Macao Trading Co.

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Behind The Bar ~ Macao Trading Co.

After graduating high school, Macao Trading Co. bartender Danilo Dacha Bozovic was on the lookout for any job he could get. It was only when he reflected on his encounter with a family friend and lifelong server in Finland that he began to consider the food and beverage world as an option. “I was deeply intrigued by his knowledge and life experience,” he says. “It struck me how amazing it was, for instance, that every drink had a special name and unique recipe — that stayed with me for a long time.” After six months of serving he stepped behind the bar and hasn’t left since. These days he can be found at Macao Trading Co., a Tribeca drinking den inspired in its cocktails and décor by 1930s Macao. If Dacha Bozovic isn’t there, check Miami — or the bookshelves: He’s a partner in the upcoming Florida location of Employees Only, and his book Barkeep recently hit stores as a modern guide to bartending and hospitality. Here, the Belgrade native chats about his favorite Campari pairing, the best night to tend bar, and the skillset he’s working on for 2016. 

BoozeMenus: What’s the first thing you do when you start your shift?

Danilo Dacha Bozovic: I assess the bar and see how busy it is. By doing so I know how much time I have for arranging the elements behind the bar, and where to prioritize.

BM: What is an ingredient that you’ve really loved working with lately?

DDB: Lately I've been working a lot with coffee, strawberries and sage. They are amazing ingredients, and their possibilities are endless.

BM: What about a spirit?

DDB: Pisco is a great and interesting spirit. I have been working with Pisco a lot. One thing that I always play around with is Serbian Slivovitz, which is a plum brandy spirit from Serbia.

BM: Which cocktail on the menu has your name written all over it?

DDB: Madame Hong. You can find it on the menu at Macao Trading Co. There is something about strawberries and Campari that is a dream come true.

BM: What night of the week is your favorite to work?

DDB: I've started to be fond of Monday nights. They are fun and always filled with interesting stories from the weekend. 

BM: Where’s the last place you found inspiration for a cocktail?

DDB: Mexico. Mexico has unbelievable ingredients and many very tasty cocktails. Maybe too many.

BM: Whose bar in the city do you love saddling up to?

DDB: I like going to Belle Reve, which is owned by one of the founders of Employees Only and Macao Trading Co., Billy Gilroy, as well as other members of the EO family. It is cool and relaxing, and they have my favorite dish in NYC: the Throb Salad.

BM: What’s something you hope to learn over the next year?

DDB: I would like to learn more about writing and publishing. I've always had a passion for it, but completing my first book Barkeep changed everything. I'm addicted, and I just need and want more.

BM: What cocktail tool could you never live without?

DDB: The mixing glass. We use it so much at Macao Trading Co. and Employees Only - without it I would be lost. 

BM: What’s a piece of advice you would give to someone entering the bartending industry?

DDB: Find a good mentor and a bar you would love to be a part of to work and grow in. In time, money will come, but the foundation needs to be right. 

*VIEW THE FULL BOOZE MENU

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Interior by Srdan KalinicNo Mames by Srdan Kalinic; Danilo Dacha Bozovic by Srdan Kalinic)

Behind The Bar ~ Apotheke

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Behind The Bar ~ Apotheke

After playing college baseball in Southern California, Apotheke bartender Chris Marshall moved to New York to get his MFA in Fine Art and took a job bartending at this downtown bar-meets-apothecary, which a friend of his had helped to design. “I didn't have any experience working in a bar before Apotheke, so I had to learn fast — and I did,” Marshall says. “As a person already geared towards creativity, I was able to put my skills to use at Apotheke in the form of cocktails.” Here, the Washington native chats about the value of patience, the facts versus fiction of absinthe, and why we should all place a little more priority on presentation.

BoozeMenus: How do you add a personal touch to the bartending experience?

Chris Marshall: ​The drinks I make are indicative of my artistic background, I suppose.  I try to make them look as interesting as possible, and they all usually have a ‘theme’ to the ingredients. Having a concept behind the drink helps to categorize and sell the drink to the guest. For example, a light, tropical drink is a theme far removed from a strong, fall or winter cocktail.

BM: Apotheke prides itself on the cocktail’s presentation — how important is presentation for you when compared to a cocktail’s flavor and balance?

CM: They are all equal, in my opinion.  The eyes eat first.  Before you smell, taste, or touch, you see.  Ultimately, you want the guest to walk away having had an experience at the bar.  The visual component is usually under considered in most places, so I always emphasize aesthetics in the drinks.

BM: Absinthe plays a big role on the menu there — what should people know about absinthe that they might not know already?

CM: Many things.  It does NOT make you hallucinate. Yes, it is real Absinthe.  No, it is not illegal.  It was made legal in 2007.  It is a highly misunderstood spirit.

BM: What is a spirit or cocktail you love introducing people to?

CM: Cachaca.  It is a Brazilian spirit distilled from sugarcane.  It is bright, floral, smells wonderful, and can be used with a lot of tropical ingredients.

BM: Who do you continue to learn from in a consistent manner? What’s the latest lesson you’ve gathered?

CM: I teach the cocktail classes at Apotheke, and sometimes a guest or student will clue me in to something I never knew.  I usually end up learning new combinations of ingredients that I never thought would work.

BM: What cocktail on the menu right now most surprised you?

CM: Our ‘Stetson’ cocktail is interesting in that it changes due to the fat wash weuse.  It has a hickory smoked bacon bourbon, which changes slightly batch to batch due to the amount of fat rendered from cooking.  It is interesting to see how this detail changes the flavor profile of the cocktail week to week.

BM: What ingredients are you playing around with lately?

​​CM: Duck bacon fat.

BM: Who’s someone that you’d love to make a drink for?

CM: Tough question. I’d really love to chat with Dr. Stephen Hawking but I don’t know if he drinks.  His mind is fascinating.

BM: If you could put into effect one house rule at Apotheke, what would it be?

​CM: I guess I would impress upon the guests the importance of patience and manners.  We are high volume and very complex in our practices, so we function more like a restaurant than a bar sometimes. It would be great if guests thought about it in the same way.

BM: Where do you want to travel to next for a bonafide drinking experience?

CM: I’d like to go to Japan for a drinking and eating experience, along with an overall non-Western culture-based experience.  The details of their culture have always impressed me.

*VIEW THE FULL BOOZE MENU

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Bar; Chris Marshall; Paid Vacation Cocktail)

Behind The Bar ~ Bergen Hill

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Behind The Bar ~ Bergen Hill

Bergen Hill bartender Sother Teague spent several years in the kitchen before he ever stepped foot behind the bar. After cooking his way through nearly a dozen states, a gig as the Research and Technical Chef for Food Network’s Good Eats with Alton Brown, and a teaching role at the New England Culinary Institute, he found his way to NYC. “I was hired to be a bartender for a six-month commitment and never went back to the kitchen,” he says. “I instantly fell in love with being a part of the guest’s experience, which was something that was nearly impossible from behind the kitchen doors.” After several years spent helming the bar at the bitters-focused Amor y Amargo, he joined the team at Bergen Hill, the seafood-driven restaurant that reopened in Noho this June. Here, Teague discusses his spirit of the moment, the lesson he abides by on the daily, and why food and cocktails have more in common than meets the eye.

BoozeMenus: What's your approach behind the bar?

Sother Teague: As in cooking, I'm a classicist. I like classic cocktails. They've stood the test of time. They have nothing to prove. If you can master them, you'll never be without an audience.

BM: What kind of research went into the creation of the cocktail list at Bergen Hill?

ST: At Bergen Hill the bar-space and back of house is very limited, so we discussed the idea of only offering a limited menu of classics and little else. Our wine list is pretty incredible, and with it being a mostly raw seafood concept, wine is a driving factor. We debated the merits of many classics before settling on our list with the hopes it was broad-reaching enough but still fit the ethos and palette of the restaurant. We're also planning to expand a list of grape-based spirits like Cognac, Armagnac, and grappa to be poured neat or on the rocks to compliment all of that grape-based wine.

BM: Which cocktail are you most excited to introduce people to?

ST: I prefer to think of it as a re-introduction, and it would be the 50/50 Martini. Bracingly chilled but not a complete hammer on the palette or the liver. It's sophisticated and not brutish. Perfect to sip as a preprandial or alongside crudo.

BM: Many people reach for wine when eating seafood - what should they know about pairing up cocktails with seafood?

ST: The dishes that Tony makes here are balanced and can pair beautifully with the wine selections we have available. But, they're also bold enough to pair with a classic. I think people should be aware that cocktails and food can pair just as well. You're not relegated to pre and post dinner cocktails with wine during the meal. If you enjoy a Negroni to start your meal, consider that the deliciously bitter citrus notes will likely play well with seafood. 

BM: What's your personal favorite food and drink pairing at the restaurant now, and why does it work so well?

ST: It's a hot one this summer in NYC. If I were on the shore, I'd have a lobster roll and a Narragansett lager, but here at the restaurant, the lobster toast with hearts of palm and a French 75 elevate that notion. Though typically made with gin today, I stick with tradition and use Pierre Ferrand Cognac. It's effervescent and balanced.

BM: What's the biggest lesson you've learned in this industry?

ST: I'm a pretty keen observer of the human condition, so I believe this to be self-taught: In the bar biz, you never know when or where you'll see someone again. It's best to be nice and hospitable to everyone. No one wants to feel left out at the party. I strive to be a great host.

BM: What spirit or liqueur are you loving most right now?

ST: Armagnac has my full attention at present. It's the crafty sibling to Cognac. It's scrappy and tough but still elegant and surprising. It's who I want to go to the dance with right now.

BM: What has been a favorite behind the bar moment for you within the past month?

ST: I had a guest celebrating his birthday. He asked a lot of questions and had a few cocktails. He was really engaged. His older brother was with him and wasn't as fascinated about the conversations we were having. I asked him why he chose to visit on his birthday and he said he knew of my reputation and wanted to enjoy some classic cocktails. I thought to myself "This kid’s going places". Did I mention it was his 21st birthday?

BM: Is there anything you won't eat or drink, or is everything fair game?

ST: If someone on earth eats it, so will I.

BM: How has your knowledge of the kitchen informed your work behind the bar?

ST: I view cocktails the same way I view soups or sauces. I look for balance and exceptional flavor while using simple, honest ingredients. My Instagram profile reads "I used to cook food, now I just make chilled soup.” @CreativeDrunk.

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Interior by Stephanie Kimberly; Sother Teague; Cocktail)

Behind The Bar With Nola Ortiz

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Behind The Bar With Nola Ortiz

When bartender Nola Ortiz moved to New York four years ago, there was no plan in place. “I just knew that this was home, and I was going to make it work one way or another,” she says. Though the Toronto native had been working in hospitality for nine years, it wasn’t until her arrival in NYC that she began to consider a long-term career in the industry — a revelation she credits to the colleagues she encountered. “The people that I met in the industry were well educated, committed, and extremely passionate about the world of spirits, cocktails and service,” she notes. “I quickly jumped on to the circuit of seminars, tastings, and courses to learn as much as I could.” She knows how to stay busy, too: In addition to behind the bar roles at Mother’s Ruin, Goldbar, and Sweetwater Social, she’s the mixologist for elit Vodka, Stoli’s ultra-premium spirit that she’s highlighted most recently in The Citrus Strut cocktail at The Marmara Park Avenue Hotel.

Here, Ortiz shares her go-to classic cocktail, the industry mentors she turns to, and the NYC bars she can’t get enough of.

BoozeMenus: How would you describe your behind the bar style?  

Nola Woodall: I've been fortunate enough to work at many different types of bars with different standards of service and volume. It has made me a more versatile bartender, and I can honestly say that my style changes from one venue to the next. I tailor my bartending personality and skill set to fit the space that I'm in.

BM: What classic cocktail do you reach for on the regular?

NW: The Dark and Stormy. This is a direct influence from the guys that I work with most regularly. It's more habit than anything else. When I'm making drinks for a guest, however, I try to figure out exactly what they like to drink. I try to be creative within the framework that they give me. 

BM: What’s your favorite bar in NYC to saddle up to on a night off?

NW: I enjoy supporting friends in the industry. The staff plays a huge roll in creating a fun environment, and I'll often be drawn to visit the people, over the establishment itself. That being said, I know I can always rely on Mother’s Ruin and Goodnight Sonny's, regardless of who is working. They both offer really amazing and consistent late night food and an effortlessly fun vibe.

BM: Who has been a mentor for you in this field, and what’s a lesson you’ve learned from them?

NW: There have been several mentors over the years, and I find myself learning things from a lot of people that I get to work with, even if they occupy different positions than me. The person who has had the most influence over my career and bartending style is Tim Cooper of Goldbar and Sweetwater Social. He has a wealth of knowledge and connections in the industry, and he's always happy to share both with anyone who asks. I have to also mention Remi Shobitan of Goldbar and Surf Lodge. In my first year in New York, I worked the floor at Goldbar. Even with seven years of bartending under my belt at the time, I can honestly say that I learned more from watching Remi bartend and the methodology behind how he builds rounds and multi-tasks than I had working on my own all those years. 

BM: What’s your all-time favorite food and drink pairing?

NW: This changes so often for me. My mood, surroundings and appetite can influence this pretty dramatically. I've discovered that you can never go wrong pairing food and drink of a similar region. With a hearty Italian meal I am drawn to drink Nebbiolo, I drink Sherry with Spanish charcuterie, and I am just as content with a burger and beer.

BM: Where would you like to travel to next for a dining and drinking experience?

NW: I spent the last year studying wine through the American Sommelier Association. It has introduced me to a whole world of regions with exceptional cuisine. There are several places in France that I would like to visit, as well as Jerez, Spain. I've always had an itch to visit Oaxaca as well, for my love of mezcal. 

BM: If you could have a bartender superpower, what would it be?

NW: I wish I had the ability to create more days in a week. 

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: La Signora Cocktail courtesy of elit by Stoli; Nola Ortiz courtesy of elit by Stoli; Lobby Bar at Marmara Park Avenue courtesy of Marmara Park Avenue)

Behind The Bar ~ The Ribbon

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Behind The Bar ~ The Ribbon

The Ribbon beverage director Jason Jeffords III credits three establishments for where he is today: Upstairs at Bouley, Gotham Bar & Grill, and Pegu Club. “I feel like it’s been a combination of luck, hard work, and a passion for the beverage realm that got me here, in the job I had hoped to have when I first moved to the city,” he says. But it was Pegu Club where he really hit his cocktail-slinging stride — even if he wasn’t the one doing the slinging, per se.  “I learned more about bartending from being around a team of inspired bartenders and their leader Audrey Saunders in two years of managing Pegu, than in my ten years of actual bartending experience,” he says. “I still pass the lessons I learned along to new bartenders that I train.” Most recently that’s been happening at The Ribbon, the Upper West Side eatery that’s becoming quickly known for its crowd-pleasing plates and approachable, seasonally-focused cocktails. Here, Jeffords chats about how he finds inspiration within the industry, the vodka drink that’s changed everything, and the chef-turned-rapper he’d love to hang with.

BoozeMenus: How do you add a personal touch to the bartending experience?

Jason Jeffords III: I like to surprise the guest with a level of service that they would not expect. It could be remembering they like gin cocktails and have one prepared for them as they sit at the bar. It could be going to say “hello” to a bar regular that is sitting at a table and not the bar, and email the next day to check that they enjoyed themselves. I think if you have to think of ways to make guests happy, it may not be the right profession for you. It really needs to be natural and come off genuine, or people will see right through you.

BM: You’ve worked in some impressive spots over the years. Which one shaped you most in your bartending career today? 

JJ: I would say the place that shaped me most is the first place I did not bartend — Pegu Club. At that point, I had been bartending for ten years and thought I had a good understanding of the trade. Audrey Saunders and her bar team opened my eyes to a level of technique that I was unaware of. I attended every bartender meeting and soaked in as much as I could. I also learned the steps in the creative process of creating a cocktail.

BM: What is a lesson you’ve learned in this trade that you wish you learned sooner?

JJ: I never liked to be told how to do things when I was younger, and I may have missed a few good lessons along the way. 

BM: What’s a lesson you’ve learned from your guests at the bar? 

JJ: I have learned that although you may know how to make a drink correctly, the guest knows how they like the drink to taste. We are here to serve the guest, not to show off. The guests are what keep the door open — not our own ego.

BM: Where do you find inspiration?  

JJ: I like to talk to younger bartenders and get them into the craft. I love opening their eyes to new ways of doing things. They go out and have a new experience and then come and tell me about it. It reminds me of when I was just getting into the business. 

BM: What cocktail on the menu are you proudest of this second?

JJ: I'm really proud of the Dotty. It is Tito’s vodka that has been infused with dried hibiscus, pineapple juice, honey syrup, maraschino liquor and orange bitters. What makes me proud is that we can get so much complexity in flavor with vodka, and I tend to really struggle with vodka.

BM: What ingredients are you playing around with lately?

JJ: I would not say it's a new discovery, but apple and pear-based brandies. Fall is coming, and the clarity, purity, tart citrus, and earthiness works well with all fall flavors. I love the higher proof warmth for the coming cooler days.

BM: What's your favorite city for drinking? 

JJ: New York, of course, is on another level. We have a wealth of incredible places to drink with hands down the most talented bartenders. I recently visited a few other foodie cities, and they are just few years behind. You can see that people are embracing cocktails, but the technical knowledge and technique is not quite there. We need a proper training school for bartenders as we have for chefs. It is coming. New Orleans would be second.

BM: What’s your favorite cocktail and food pairing at the restaurant? 

JJ: It may sound odd, but we have a Mezcal, Jameson, Ancho Reyes and Cointreau drink called Death By Oliver Cromwell. It has these smoky, earthy red pepper notes that work really well with our rotisserie pork prime — a beautiful piece of pork that has not been over seasoned or overly manipulated by chefs.

BM: What celebrity or big name would you love to grab drinks with? 

JJ: I would have drinks with Action Bronson. Not sure what we would talk about, but we would have some fun for sure, and maybe break a few rules. We would probably eat a ton, too.

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Interior; Jason Jeffords III; Cocktail)

Behind The Bar ~ BlackTail

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Behind The Bar ~ BlackTail

BlackTail bar manager Jesse Vida can still remember buying his first two behind the bar reads: Imbibe and The Savoy Cocktail Book. “From there it was full steam ahead,” he says, recounting his move from San Francisco to New York, where he landed his first East Coast job at Booker & Dax. He continued to spend three years at Dutch Kills before making his way downtown to The Dead Rabbit, a venue that quickly felt like home base for the San Francisco transplant. “The Dead Rabbit really helped me elevate my game and detail to attention, and I knew at that point I wanted to be as involved as possible with the team and concept,” he says. It only makes sense then that he’s at the helm of BlackTail, the Dead Rabbit team’s take on prohibition-era Cuba. Here, Vida talks about the simplest and trickiest cocktail out there today, why downtown Manhattan reigns right now, and the controlled chaos he can’t get enough of.

BoozeMenus: How would you describe your behind the bar style? 

Jesse Vida: Fun, engaging, attentive, and flexible with guests and different personalities.  I love engaging guests and finding the perfect drink for them, or what topics excite them.  I love being crazy busy and making a bunch of cocktails — I find a certain calm in the controlled chaos of a busy night at a bar or restaurant.  It's a specific feeling that only happens in the most intense moments of the rush.

BM: What kind of research and development went into the cocktail menu, and how long did the process take? 

JV: A lot of research and development went into the menu.  From the cocktail side it was roughly three months, a lot of which we worked on cocktails every single day.  The concept was much longer in the making by Sean Muldoon and Drinksology, our creative team in Belfast.  Before we started working on cocktails, we researched tons of old cocktail books and menus from the 1910's - 1950's, where we found inspiration for styles and cocktails.

BM: Why should more people be making the trek downtown (as in, way downtown) for drinking? 

JV: People should make the trek downtown to experience not one, but two amazingly detailed and thoughtful cocktail bars that pay homage to old New York in one of its most historic neighborhoods.  We have a 19th Century Irish pub that transports drinkers with an intimate space and complex cocktail selection.  Then at BlackTail you walk into Havana Cuba in lush life style, with live Cuban music and a Cuban-inspired food menu. The cocktails are fashioned after the American bar in Havana during prohibition, with 44 drinking options of house originals and classic adaptations.

BM: How has your experience at BlackTail been similar to The Dead Rabbit, thus far, and how has it been different? 

JV: What's similar is the ethos — the style of service and extreme attention to detail.  It's completely different in the pace and atmosphere.  It's a much bigger space than the parlor at The Dead Rabbit, so that makes for a completely different drinking environment.  It's a bit more lively and rambunctious; a bit louder and more open.

BM: How did you guys decide to organize the menu into the five main categories that you did —highballs, punches, sours, old fashioneds, and cocktails?

JV: The inspiration was the iconic glasses that people were consuming drinks from in Havana at that time.  If you search the internet for pictures, you will see some semblance of our selection of glassware over and over.  We also wanted to be accessible. It’s a large menu and that can be intimidating for a lot of people.  That said, as the general public continues to become more and more cocktail-savvy, people do have a general affiliation with which type of drink will come in the different glasses.  

BM: What was the most surprising thing you learned about the drinking styles and habits of Cuba of that era? 

JV: I was surprised to see how much Gin, Brandy and Whiskey was being consumed at the time.  I kind of just assumed everyone was drinking Rum. It certainly was very prevalent, but it was almost even with some other spirits.  Our program does focus on Rum, but we have all of the categories very well represented.

BM: Which cocktail are you most excited to turn people on to? 

JV: I would say the Highball section of our menu excites me the most — I have never seen them done the way we do them anywhere else.  I also think they are very tasty, on top of having a very unique execution and presentation.

BM: Which cocktail took you the longest to perfect, and what made it so? 

JV: The Daiquiri. It’s the most simple but complicated cocktail of all time.  Every bartender has an idea on what a perfect daiquiri should taste like.  I think we did something like 30 or 40 variations of white rum blends as well as ratios of lime, sugar and Rum.

BM: Who do you hope walks into the bar soon and saddles up in front of you? 

JV: Joe Montana, because I'd like to make him a cocktail and talk football. 

BM: Where can you be found post-shift, and what are you ordering? 

JV: I'll be tucked in the corner of The Dead Rabbit’s taproom, sipping a nice, dry cider with a shot of Irish Whiskey.

*VIEW THE FULL BOOZE MENU

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos by Andrew Kist | From left: Rum & Cola; Bar; Jesse Vida)


Behind The Bar ~ Sons & Daughters

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Behind The Bar ~ Sons & Daughters

Sons & Daughters bar manager Eryn Reece has been working in the restaurant industry since she was 16 years old. After making the move from Portland to NYC, she quickly found her footing at some of the city’s best known bars, including the likes of Bar Milano, Mayahuel, and Death & Company. Nowadays you can find the West Coast native at Sons & Daughters, the Chelsea-situated eatery complete with an innovative and thoughtful lineup of cocktails. Here, we chat with Reece about her former love-hate relationship with agave, the East Village-based bartender she adores, and the shot she’s ordering post-shift.

BoozeMenus: How do you add a personal touch to the bartending experience?

Eryn Reece: My favorite thing about bartending is the interaction. I love people. My bar is my stage, and I love introducing people to new flavors and experiences.

BM: Which of your bartending jobs to date has shaped you most in your career today?

ER: Mayahuel. When I first started working there, I couldn’t, for the life of me, wrap my head around tequila. I didn’t love it quite yet, but didn’t hate it. But I most certainly didn’t know how to make it work in a cocktail. It wasn’t until Phil Ward had me play around with the “Mr. Potato Head” concept that I finally got it. Take a classic — for example, a gin-based one like the “Last Word,” which is normally equal parts gin, lime, maraschino, and green chartreuse. If you sub in tequila it’s a little different but equally as good, if not better. Next time try it with mezcal.  

BM: What did you consider most when creating the cocktail program at S&D? 

ER: I wanted to bring interesting flavors to Chelsea, but also do it in a way that we could accommodate high volume. I’m used to doing rad flavors in a precious way, and I wanted to make it way easier by doing well thought out batches.

BM: What cocktail has your name written all over it, and what inspired that drink?

ER: The Intrepid, which was inspired by the Manhattan. I love spirit-forward cocktails — especially savory ones with mezcal.

BM: What cocktail are you most excited to turn guests on to? 

ER: The Gamma Ray, which was the hardest cocktail for me to create. Vodka in the last ten years hasn’t been the most exciting of sprits, and this cocktail is all about vodka, backed up with this cool Icelandic schnapps called Brennivin. It’s interesting without being overly aggressive.

BM: What music is playing while you’re working?

ER: Everything from Otis Redding to and 90s hip hop to Waylon Jennings and Black Milk.

BM: What ingredient are you most excited to break out once fall hits?

ER: I want apples and allspice so much that I can’t wait. I want to wear boots and a sweater while typing this.

BM: Where can you be found post-shift, and what are you ordering?

ER: My favorite after hours place is Goodnight Sonny. They have great drinks, food, an awesome staff, and serve until 4am. My favorite order is the grilled fish sandwich, a shot of mezcal, and a grapefruit beer.

BM: Who’s someone in this industry that you could watch bartend all day long?

ER: Joaquin Simo, owner of the wonderful Pouring Ribbons in the East Village. Simo and I worked at Death & Company together. I can’t compliment him enough — he’s lovely, sarcastic, and knowledgeable. He is a wonderful host and an extremely attentive bartender.

BM: What’s your favorite cocktail and food pairing at the restaurant, and why does it work so well?  

ER: The Peruvian chicken and the Hard Day’s Work. The chicken has such great levels of spice, while the cocktail, which is smoky, spicy, and bitter, also adds to them and complements them.

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Strawberry Fields Cocktail by Shedrick Pelt; Eryn Reece by Eric Medsker; Interior)

Behind The Bar ~ HandCraft Kitchen & Cocktails

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Bartender Alex Mouzakitis was just 10 years old when he started off in the hospitality industry, working at his uncle’s deli in a variety of roles, from the register to coffee duties. His foray into the cocktail realm came some years later, at a venue the Long Island native credits for the start of several other barkeep colleagues: TGI Fridays. “It wasn’t exactly where I cultivated my love for crafting cocktails, but I couldn’t have asked for a better foundation on every basic level for becoming a great bartender and for learning the art of hospitality,” he says. From there he worked his way through every avenue of the restaurant business, from the mom and pop to the corporate. Most recently he’s helming the bar at HandCraft Kitchen & Cocktails, the Kip’s Bay hangout with a drink list as clever as it is approachable. Here, Mouzakitis chats about his five-ingredient rule, the problem with cocktail bars, and the party trick he’s nearly mastered.

BoozeMenus: How would you describe your approach behind the bar?

Alex Mouzakitis: I want everyone at the bar to be as comfortable as I am behind the bar.  I’m really friendly.  I want people to have a good time.  It’s about no pretention at all — I don’t care if you want a Last Word or a can of Bud.

BM: How would you describe the cocktail program at Handcraft?

AM: I love cocktails.  But I have begun to hate cocktail bars.  They are often super douchey.  When we opened Handcraft I wanted an approachable cocktail bar, where the novice cocktailier will not be intimidated by scary words and obscure liquors. At the same time, if you want something super fancy, we have the tools to accommodate you. 

BM: What did you consider most when creating the drinks there?

AM: I have a five-ingredient rule, and a five-minute rule.  I try to keep recipes under five ingredients most of the time, and when it comes to serving drinks, no table should wait more than five minutes.  When you’re sitting at the bar for five mins watching a show, the time flies.  But when you’re sitting at a table, it feels like a lifetime.

BM: What cocktail was the trickiest to perfect?

AM: I recently added a cocktail with carrot juice, which I had never used before.  Carrots are sweeter than I anticipated, so balancing that proved tricky. 

BM: What's the last food or drink experience that really floored you?

AM: There is a small — and I mean really small — Middle Eastern restaurant in Astoria called Ali’s.  There are maybe ten seats, and the kitchen is half the space.  There’s no menu, so the owner just makes whatever he feels like.  I tried lamb brain there — something I would never eat but that stayed with me for weeks because of how excellent it was.

BM: What's your favorite night of the week? 

AM: I really enjoy Mondays.  The people who are out on the town on a Monday are usually super easy going and a little more friendly from my experience.  And, of course, anyone throwing back a couple of cocktails on a Monday is probably a seasoned bar patron. 

BM: What summer ingredient are you sad to see go as we hit fall?

AM: I really love watermelon.  It’s so refreshing and pairs with various spirits easily.  I have been infusing it into gin so I can get at least another month out of it.  People really love summer flavors right at the end of the season.  

BM: Where can you be found post-shift, and what are you ordering?

AM: I really enjoy dives, especially after a long night of stirring and shaking. All I want is a shot and can of Bud.

BM: What's the most recent lesson you've learned in this industry? 

AM: I watched a bartender twist off a cap of Bud Light with one hand while he wasringing something into POS.  I didn’t know that was possible! I can almost do it. 

BM: What ingredient would you like to start making in-house next? 

AM: I just started making a strawberry syrup that allows me to offer fresh strawberry flavor well into the fall.  It doubles as grenadine, which is a plus. 

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Whiskey Sour; Liquid Lunch; Alex Mouzakitis; Interior)

Behind The Bar ~ Handy Liquor bar

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Brooklyn native Matt Levine got an early start in the NYC bar industry. After barbacking during his middle school years, he started bartending through high school and college — a consistent track that led him to open his first cocktail bar in 2008: A-list celebrity favorite The Eldridge on the Lower East Side. Since then he’s rolled up his sleeves for countless other projects (including the opening of Sons of Essex in 2011), and most recently that means his work with indieFORK, a full service food and beverage company responsible for the likes of SoHo’s Chalk Point Kitchen and Handy Liquor Bar. Here, Levine shares with us his ideal work night, his go-to, two-ingredient cocktail, and the many reasons he loves SoHo.

BoozeMenus: How do you add a personal touch to the bar experience?

Matt Levine: I try to emphasize the importance of creativity and bold flavors — an upgrade to favorite cocktail classics.

​BM: What is it about your job that you’re most excited to do every day? 

ML: Our menu is ever changing, so it’s always exciting to experiment with new flavors and seasons, while working with fresh pressed juices, homemade tinctures and syrups.  

BM: What did you consider most when creating the cocktail program at Handy Liquor Bar? 

ML: I collaborate with our Master Mixologist Albert Depompeis, who spearheads our cocktail programing. I also collect feedback and ideas from our extremely talented bartenders. All of our The Handy Liquor Bar mixologists contribute to our Seasonal Programming, as well as our Daily Specials.  

BM: Describe the perfect night there at the bar.

ML: We open up at 5:00pm and generally get a great after-work crowd, which leads into a pre-Chalk Point Kitchen crowd, and then we turn into the ultimate pre-gaming spot where guests sip on cocktails, play board games and cards prior to heading out to dance the night away.

BM: What ingredient are you most excited about right now?

ML: We most recently launched our Fall cocktail programming, which consists of all autumn spices and flavor profiles built on cinnamon, cloves, ginger, maple, nutmeg, and sage. We’re also trying to emphasize the importance of locally sourced organic produce, such as apples, pear, and pomegranates. 

BM: What’s your go-to cocktail as we head into cooler months?

ML: I am really excited for our new The Handy Liquor Bar cocktail, made with Tipsy Pear Cider (Martin Cognac, homemade warm pear cider, Benedictine, and autumn spices), lemon juice, cinnamon stick, and shaved pears.

BM: Where can you be found post-shift, and what are you ordering?

ML: I keep it simple — my drink of choice is a Hendrick’s and tonic with fresh pressed cucumber juice.

BM: What do you like most about working in the SoHo neighborhood? 

ML: SoHo is a neighborhood with a strong sense of community — many of our regulars support us day in and day out. And besides the support of our local residents, SoHo has a strong bond amongst its bartenders. Many local bartenders regularly come by and support us, as well. 

BM: What’s the biggest key to running a successful cocktail bar, in your opinion? 

ML: It’s all about having a great team through and through, from our Director of Operations —Georges Florus — to our bartenders, barbacks, bussers, servers, bathroom attendants, dishwashers, and security. It truly is a team effort.

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Handy Liquor Bar Interior; Matt Levine; Tipsy Pear Cider)

Behind The Bar ~ Virginia's

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Behind The Bar ~ Virginia's

After bartending his way through college, Virginia’s bar director EricSmades landed his first NYC behind the stick job at Jay Z's 40/40 club. It was during his time there that he responded to a Craigslist ad for a position at Picholine, the two Michelin star restaurant that drew Upper West Side crowds for years. With a few years of fine dining experience to his name, Smades headed downtown to The Dutch, where he discovered a newfound appreciation for the industry. “The Dutch was a hybrid of amazing food and cocktails, delivered with a level of service that has the foundation of fine dining with the warmness of a local tavern,” he says. Smades fashioned cocktails at a few more notable spots (including Lafayette and Narcissa), before helping to open Virginia’s, the East Village’s most recent interpretation of old school bistro-meets-neighborhood bar. Here, the Jersey native shares his go-to post-work spot, his home bar musts, and the sports celeb he wants to call the shots with.

BoozeMenus: What's your favorite city for drinking? 

Eric Smades: There's no better city to drink than Manhattan, in my opinion. From amazing dive bars to high end cocktail spots, we have anything we want at our fingertips. 

BM: Which of your previous positions has most shaped your bartending career today?

ES: I can definitely say The Dutch was the biggest influence on my career. I had an amazing crew there and incredible mentors, such as Tiffany Short, Chad Walsh, and Josh Nadel — all beasts of our industry. It's not the big things they teach you, it's the tiny intricacies that stick with you and make you a great bartender. Even little sayings like "do you want something shaken and juicy or stirred and boozy" will always stick with me, and you'd be amazed how much this will help your guest navigate the cocktail menu — without confusing them. 

BM: What is a lesson you’ve learned in this trade that you wish you learned sooner?

ES: I've learned more lessons behind the bar then in any other area of my life. The wisest man in the room is the one who has made the most mistakes. I guess you could say you wish you learned every lesson sooner, but you learn them at a greater volume behind the bar. Patience is the key. 

BM: What’s a lesson you’ve learned from your guests?

ES: You learn stuff from your guests all the time — if you listen. The bar is a fascinating place. A complete stranger will tell you things he or she wouldn't tell their significant other. It's a social Petri dish. 

BM: What cocktail on the menu are you most proud of this second?

ES: Being a huge bourbon and rye fan, I love the "Mean Streets.” It's a brown butter-infused bourbon with a touch of sage served old fashioned style, with a sexy sage leaf frozen in the oversize ice cube. I also love the "Burnout.” It's an amazing blend of Brandy, Laphraiog, caramel syrup and a dusting of green chartreuse. It’s perfect when there's a chill in the air.

BM: How do you add a personal touch to the bartending experience?

ES: I'd say the only way to add a personal touch to service is to be true to who you are. If you're too cool for school, which a lot of bartenders tend to be these days, or if you overwhelm the guest, you're a lot less likely to give that guest the experience they're looking for. I feel like given the different venues I've worked at allows me to deal with all types of guests. 

BM: Where are you found post-shift and what are you drinking? 

ES: I love going to The Wayland after work. It's great no matter what I’m craving — whether it’s a margarita or a stiff old fashioned.

BM: What celebrity or big name would you love to grab drinks with, and what would you talk about? 

ES: I would love to grab drinks with Keith Hernandez. I'm a huge Mets fan, and he's a legendary boozer. I think we'd probably end up crushing beers at Woo Hop at 5am. 

BM: What are you always stocking at your home bar? 

ES: My home bar is surprisingly stocked with more wine than booze. When I'm home I just like to wind down with some good wine. There might be a bottle of Rittenhouse there, too.

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Interior; Eric Smades; 'Sunny Girl' cocktail with Žubówka Vodka, Tarragon Syrup, Riesling, Herbals)

Behind The Bar ~ Boulton & Watt

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Behind The Bar ~ Boulton & Watt

After landing in NYC in 2000 for theatre school, bartender Dustin Olson realized that the hospitality realm would come in handy in fueling his acting endeavors. He acquired a training shift at Ward III and has since taken over the beverage program at Boulton & Watt, the East Village gastropub known for its classed up comfort food and classically tuned cocktail list. Here, Olson chats about the makings of a drinks menu, the dish he’s ordering post-shift, and the celebrity interview he’d love to experience.

BoozeMenus: What goes into the creation of a new cocktail menu?

Dustin Olson: The menus I'm currently working on for Boulton and Drexler's are seasonally inspired and don't exceed ten cocktails. There are a couple of cocktails that move too well to take off, but where I can, I'll tweak them to fit the season. I try to include at least one classic and maybe one modern classic — something out of the Milk & Honey catalogue, for example — if I can. 

BM: What new cocktail are you most excited to introduce guests to?

DO: I'm pretty happy with our Pisco Sour at Boulton. I use an aged Pisco (Mistral), cut the base with Applejack and use honey and thyme liqueur for the sweetener. It just really felt like fall, and all the flavors worked really well together.

BM: Has there ever been a cocktail that’s proved difficult to take off the menu — or even impossible to?

DO: At Drexler's we had a gin and tonic upgrade we built around the Botanist Islay Gin and the Fever Tree Mediterranean Tonic. We made a celery cordial for it, threw in some watermelon radishes as a garnish, and watched it fly. It was just too specific to warm weather, however, so we had to take it off. At Boulton, we have a jalapeno and tequila French 75-type drink that has been there since day one, and it’s far and away the most popular drink. We'd be foolish to take it off, though we are working on tweaking it a bit.

BM: Where do you find inspiration? 

DO: The most success I've had is by simply focusing on one particular product, learning everything I can, and then building a drink around it. I'm also fortunate enough to work in the East Village and live in Williamsburg, so smart cocktail people are never far away.

BM: What spirit do you enjoy working with the most? 

DO: As a category, I think gin presents the most opportunities, if only because each one has its own unique botanical fingerprint and, as such, a roadmap with which to play around. Amaros are fun for similar reasons.

BM: What ingredient are you loving lately?

DO: I was just tasted on the Don Ciccio line the other day and there were a few gems that piqued my interest. The Brovo Boomerang is another product I'm looking to include in our winter flip. Both are small American companies playing to bartenders, which I think is worth supporting.

BM: What's your favorite bar in NYC to saddle up to? 

DO: So as a creature of habit, and as someone who appreciates a good local spot, I find myself bellying up to the bar at Ba'sik when I'm in my neighborhood. You might also find me huddled over a steak tartare at Goodnight Sonny's after a long shift in the East Village.

BM: What celebrity or big name would you love to grab drinks with?

DO: Sitting with one celebrity would be tough for me, because in those situations I have a tendency to over-scrutinize everything I say and I end up just vomiting words all over the place. I listened to Tim Ferriss interview Malcolm Gladwell a while back and thought about how great it would be to hang at a table with them and watch what booze would do to the conversation. Maybe I'd interject once or twice with whatever fifty-cent words I could muster. Or maybe I'd just drink my drink and listen. Either way, I'd enjoy it.

*VIEW THE FULL BOOZE MENU

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Interior; Dustin Olson; Jungle Bahd cocktail by Ryan Gleason)

Behind The Bar ~ Sauvage

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Behind The Bar ~ Sauvage

Bartender Will Elliott got his start in the industry providing patrons with a different kind of buzz. “Part of my job entailed being a barista, and it definitely shaped my mindset on how to get multiple drinks out at a time while maintaining quality,” he says. He also learned a thing or two about customer service. “The spot was run by old school Italians who felt that even when the customer was wrong, we were to provide them with jovial service — while letting them know.” From there, the Massachusetts native moved to an island off the coast of Maine, where he free-poured rum and cokes while studying up on the classics. “I remember even at that point asking myself things like, ‘What is cognac made of?’ and began garnishing things in crazy ways,’” he recalls. Most recently you can find his handiwork at Sauvage, the Williamsburg bistro from team Maison Premiere. Here, Elliott shares with us why bartenders could afford to talk less.

BoozeMenus: What's your approach behind the bar?

Will Elliott: To maximize motion and minimize idle talking. I think that the highest form of hospitality you can offer a guest is through executing your job really well. Win more than you lose. Show your love for your guests through the actions you take, not the words that you say. 

BM: How would you describe the cocktail program at Sauvage in three words?

WE: Ethereal, high-elevation, vinous.

BM: Your cocktail list is comprised of several classics. How do you put your mark on a drink that has been around for more than a century? 

WE: The re-interpretation of classics starts with how you have curated your backbar. There should be a thread weaving the bottles on your shelf together, and there should be bottles that inform one another. From there, hopefully you are representing your palate, which is something personal, and something visionary. It’s important to get to the heart of the heart of the drink – to know enough about the drink to know its historical context and take what you like from that and create your own story, reflective of your own palate. 

One cocktail I don't think should be reinterpreted is The Last Word. It is too deeply rooted in history to mess with.

BM: Which drink there was the most fun to do this with? 

WE: The Martini because it is such a stumper! Why should there be another martini created? Why should you pick up a guitar and be another person to play one in a three-piece band?

It is the perfect restaurant drink: You want it before your meal as an aperitif, during your meal, and after, as it plays the role of digestif. Once I realized I wanted to stump myself I looked at each component individually. For the gin, I use Xoriguer gin, which is made with a Cava grape. It is a pretty neutral spirit. Juniper is the only botanical. It’s a very directional, minimal, and focused gin. 

The vermouth is Vergano, which is a distant relative of Cocchi made by a famed Torino vermouth producer. It is very floral and has high-toned rose oil notes. It is made by a legend of a producer.

The garnish for a martini is always very important. It is a very important part of the martini story at large. We serve our martini with a sidecar of crushed ice with several different garnishes for guests to choose from. There is a lemon knot – there is this classic idea that you don’t serve a lemon wedge in a cocktail at a nice place so that guest doesn’t have to squeeze anything. We tie the lemon twists into a knot so that most of the oil is already out, and it imparts a very subtle flavor if chosen. We also offer Nasturtium blossoms, from the caper plant. Capers are a classic second choice to olives in martini. I like the black pepper notes of it.  Then, there are the Juniper berries, which, to me, when chewed on, offer hints of tasting the color — in the same way that a blueberry tastes blue.

BM: If you're not drinking the classics at your bar, what are you drinking?

WE: Champagne.

BM: What ingredient are you excited to turn guests on to now? 

WE: Eau de vie. it’s a killer price point, and it's foreign to most people. It's a quick and delicious way to spruce up classics or unaged spirits like vodka or gin. For many guests, it is a safe choice because it is less off-putting than they might find some botanical spirits to be.

BM: What's the best food and cocktail pairing at the restaurant, in your opinion?

WE: Venison tartare and a martini.

BM: Which spirit selection was the most fun for you to put together? 

WE: I love our gin selection. Among them are Reisetbauer Blue Gin from Austria, Booth's Barrel Aged Gin, and Ungava, a yellow gin made with botanicals from the Canadian Tundra.

BM: What's your holiday cocktail of choice? 

WE: I really love sherry cobblers, but I am fussy about them, so I would go to Maison Premiere to enjoy one.

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Martini by Nicole Franzen; Bitter Storm by Nicole Franzen; Will Elliott by Lizzie Munro)

Behind The Bar ~ The Last Word

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Behind The Bar ~ The Last Word

Last Word head bartender Ciaran Wiese grew up in the service industry. “My first job was in bussing tables, and I've worked every job in the front of the house, as well as a stint as a line cook and some time spent expediting,” he says. In 2006 that all changed he was serving tables at a bar in Brooklyn Heights, when a fellow bartender turned him on to some of the industry’s best books and bars. “From then on, the fire was lit,” he says. “I took the first bartending gig I could find and worked my way up to bar manager.” After 10 years bartending in Tucson and Portland Wiese finds himself helming the program at The Last Word, a serious cocktail joint that landed in Astoria just this August. Here, the Tucson native shares his go-to ingredient of the moment, the beauty of the classic cocktail behind the eponymous bar, and the perks of Astoria’s drinking scene.

BoozeMenus: How do you prefer to tend bar?

Ciaran Wiese: I'm pretty straight forward — service comes first. Though I consider an extensive knowledge of all things bar-related, as well as speed, to be a part of service.

BM: What did you consider most when creating the cocktail program at the Last Word? 

CW: We wanted to create something that was approachable for anyone from the neighborhood. We tried to not get too esoteric with ingredients, and we tried to stay true to the classics. 

BM: For people unfamiliar with the Last Word, what should they know about this cocktail?

CW: It carries the perfect balance in equal parts — gin, green Chartreuse, and maraschino liqueur. There are three very intense flavors brought together with lime, making it assertive and herbaceous, while still being bright and refreshing.

BM: Which cocktail was the most fun to name? 

CW: I love naming drinks; it's one of my favorite aspects of coming up with cocktails. On the current menu I'd have to say the Hijo de Bruja, or son of a witch. It references the Strega and the chiles used to flavor the vodka.

BM: What music is playing while you’re working?

CW: Our music is pretty eclectic. We might start with some Mulatu Astatke or Al Green, move on to some Budos Band, and finish out the night with a little Allah Las.

BM: What ingredient are you digging most this season?

CW: I went a little overboard with Ancho Reyes Verde on the current menu. I definitely feel a little biased, as I’m from the Southwest — I love that roasted poblano flavor.

BM: How would you describe the drinking scene is Astoria versus the rest of NYC? 

CW: Astoria is still very new to the cocktail revival. Our drinks can be a little intimidating, but Astoria seems to be really receptive to them. Even though the whole speakeasy thing feels a little outdated, it's still a novelty to some Astorians — people love the idea. 

BM: Who’s someone in this industry that you could watch bartend all day long?

CW: I've got to be honest, I don't get out too often on my nights off. I really like watching bartenders that maintain multitasking and speed while carrying on an entire conversation with a guest.

BM: Where are you heading post-shift, and what are you ordering stat? 

CW: If I'm out early enough, our crew usually heads to the Ditty, two blocks down Ditmars. It’s a great environment, and it has some of the best bar food for late night. As for my order, it’s always a beer and a shot of mezcal. 

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Interior by Oleg March; Ciaran Wiese by Francine Dominguez; 'Montgomery Mule', 'Gila River', and '16 Shells From a Thirty Ought Six' by Francine Dominguez)


Behind The Bar ~ Forest Hills Station House

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Behind The Bar ~ Forest Hills Station House

Forest Hills Station House general manager and beverage director Robert Burns has spent the last 24 years in the restaurant industry, crediting it as a world that was able to financially sustain plenty of other creative endeavors — including an interest in teaching poetry at a university. “I quickly got turned off by how many people in the literary world seemed to be blowing smoke up each other's asses,” he says. “But there's no lying in the bartender-guest interaction. If a guest doesn't like a drink you put in front of them, you'll see it on their face--they're not looking for a return compliment.” It was that authenticity that won Burns over and landed him behind the bar, where he’s spent the past two plus decades in every kind of imbibing environment, from corporate restaurants and fine dining venues, to nightclubs and dives. Here, the Queens native chats with us about Forest Hill Station House’s Good Whiskey Passport participation, why bartending is much more than meets the palate, and the reason behind the bar’s rigorous training program (hint: interested applicants, get a library card).

BoozeMenus: What’s your approach behind the bar?

Robert Burns: What I try to stress with my bartenders is that the guest experience is not just about the quality of the food, cocktails, beer, or whiskey. It's about the feel of it all. I don't believe that what we’re selling is something tangible — what we're selling is a feeling. It's a combination of sensory and social experiences. The devil is in the details, from how you smile and make eye contact, to how you arrange a plume of sage at the top of a Collins glass, to the short bursts of conversation, to how you move with a seeming effortlessness. Cocktails are a tool we use to add to that feeling.

BM: How would you define the "modern neighborhood bar" - and how do you accomplish that with Forest Hills Station House? 

RB: When I think of how we try to craft the "modern neighborhood bar" at Forest Hills Station House, I'm again thinking about history. When settlers arrived in this country there was often a debate over what to build first: a church, or a tavern? Not because people just wanted to booze it up, but because the tavern was the center of the community. It was where you went to get your mail, find a job, hire someone — it even doubled as a courthouse. Taverns were social institutions whose owners were viewed with the same respect as politicians, doctors, and lawyers. Since then, taverns and bars have evolved greatly, but the idea of a neighborhood bar is still tightly woven into the fabric of a community. What I try to do is espouse the idea of the bar as a community center, while focusing on the modern beverage industry. If we have the capacity to introduce guests to modern and classic cocktails, craft beer, and craft spirits, and to entice them to be more adventurous, then I think we’re obligated to do that. Craft cocktails don’t need to be intimidating — they should be shared. It’s just the natural evolution of the food and beverage industry.

BM: Tell us a little about the training program there at the bar, and why it's important to focus on this? 

RB: If we’re going to guide our guests towards being more adventurous, then we really need to be educated liaisons to our products. I try to hire staff as barbacks. When I hire someone I’m not necessarily looking for someone with tons of experience; I’m looking for someone with a positive mental attitude and a good natured disposition who is passionate and wants to learn. I let them know up front that there’s going to be well over 1,000 pages of reading before they start mixing drinks. A barback starts out learning that the quality of his or her juices and syrups is extremely important because they’ll go into almost every cocktail we make. At the same time, they’re becoming familiar with everything on the back bar. By the time they become a server, they’ve already read and been tested on books like “Tasting Beer” by Randy Mosher and “Whiskey Distilled” by Heather Greene. They’re familiar with flavor wheels and they’ve begun to develop their own palate. As servers, they learn our style of hospitality and are encouraged to read books like “Bourbon Empire” by Reid Mitenbuler and “Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey” by Michael Veach. By the time they’re ready to bartend, they’ve gone through David Wondrich’s “Imbibe” and Gary Regan’s “The Joy of Mixology,” and in some cases Arnold’s “Liquid Intelligence” and Embury’s “The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks”. It’s a lot of reading, but we’ve established a staff culture that revolves around learning and teaching. Once they’re behind the bar, I try to guide their creativity by starting simple. I like to start bartenders with the Mister Potato Head method of subbing ingredients in classics. I run a cocktail challenge every week in which the bartenders have to come up with cocktails that adhere to certain rules like “Jamie Boudreau’s Golden Ratio” or “Bourbon and Breakfast Cereal”. This allows me to really keep tabs on their progress and their sense of balance in a cocktail. From here I try to let them develop their own style with some nudging in certain directions. If a bartender only seems to be exploring stirred cocktails, I’ll have them turn their stirred cocktails into sours. If a bartender is creating sugar bombs, I’ll have them start working with Bësk.

BM: Which cocktail on the menu is the one you’d reach for time and time again?

RB: We’ve got over 120 whiskeys behind the bar here, with a heavy focus on bourbon and rye, so definitely the Signature Old Fashioned. It’s approachable, everyone’s heard of it, and it’s simple. But what I love about an Old Fashioned is that it varies tremendously depending on the whiskey you select, the bitters you choose, and whether you use demerara, simple, or actual gomme syrup. It really showcases a mastery of subtlety. My post-shift cocktail lately has been two ounces of Ragtime with a half-ounce of OYO Pumpernickel, a quarter ounce of housemade gomme, and three dashes of Regan’s.

BM: What cocktail did you guys choose to serve for the Good Whiskey Passport? 

RB: We’re featuring Pikesville Rye by Heaven Hill. It’s a fairly new overproof straight rye that just won the World’s Best Rye award at the World Whisky Awards. We’re also featuring Blade & Bow Bourbon, which is another fairly new whiskey put out by Diageo and aged at Stitzel-Weller. We’re kind of loose with the rules, and for the most part, we let anyone pick a whiskey or whiskey cocktail at $16 or less.

BM: Which Passport has been your favorite to be a part of, thus far? 

RB: Definitely the Good Whiskey Passport. The opportunity to turn new guests onto whiskeys they haven’t tried before is pretty exciting.

BM: What’s the last amazing food and drink experience you’ve had, and what made it so?

RB: Longman & Eagle in Chicago. I had confit beef tripe with pork liver mousse and Szechuan sauce that was garnished with small pieces of sweet marshmallow puffed rice. I love when big flavors and textures contrast and complement one another. I followed it with a Blanton’s Original from 1990. That was an unforgettable meal.

BM: Where would you like to travel to next for a dining or drinking experience? 

RB: In the past few years I’ve bar hopped in Portland, Chicago, New Orleans, Boston, and Denver. I’d really like to stumble around Seattle or San Francisco for a few nights. 

BM: If you could have a bartender superpower, what would it be?

RB: My palate, and I think most peoples’, tends to change throughout the day. I’d love to have the exact same palate, every moment, of every single day. (Real Answer: Being able to cut people off with the Jedi Mind Trick).

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Oaxacan Cobbler; Robert Burns; Interior)

Behind The Bar ~ Faun

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Behind The Bar ~ Faun

When Faun bartender Billy Nichols moved to NYC, he knew he would soon find himself in the city’s bustling food and drink scene. “Most of my NYC friends were working in bars and restaurants, so it was just a matter of time before I ended up in hospitality,” says Nichols, who landed his first service gig as a back waiter at Vinegar Hill House. Soon enough, he was slinging drinks at the Brooklyn restaurant before he worked his way up to head bartender. Most recently you can sample his work behind the bar at Faun, the Italian eatery that opened doors in Prospect Heights this August. Here, the Virginia native shares with us the makings of a perfect cocktail, the spirit category he could chat about for days, and the two cities that make his cut for dream drinking destination.

BoozeMenus: What are the components of a great cocktail, in your opinion? 

Billy Nichols: A great cocktail is a balance between booze, bitter, sweet and sour. I love it when a drink has all four components that work to complement each other.

BM: Who’s been a role model for you in this industry, and what have you learned from them? 

BN: I've worked with a lot of great people, but Bill Fitch has always stood out as a role model. Bill was the wine director at Vinegar Hill House when I was working there, and I have the pleasure of working with him again at Faun. Not only is he incredibly informative when talking about wine, but he can talk about almost any topic. He cares about his product and takes pride in sharing his knowledge with the guests and staff.

BM: Which cocktail on the menu now was the most fun for you to create? 

BN: The Known Unknown was fun to create. I knew from the beginning I wanted a split base of gin and mezcal, but it took some experimenting to reach the final product. I ended up using two amari to balance the drink: Amaro Meletti and Contratto Fernet. Meletti has a rich sweetness that smooths out the herbal bitterness of the fernet.

BM: What spirit do you get most excited about turning your guests on to?

BN: I love it when a guest is interested in our digestifs. At Faun, we have limited space for bottles, so I have to be selective about what goes on the shelf. The digestifs were my category in which to have some fun and offer a selection. The different flavor profiles offer a chance to have a conversation with guests and bring them something that you have picked out just for them.

BM: What’s your approach behind the bar?

BN: I think a bartender should be able to talk in-depth about the product while being relatable and friendly. I've seen bartenders who put on a holier-than-thou vibe and completely lose their customer. Bars and restaurants are selling more than what's listed on the menu. We are providing hospitality.

BM: What ingredient, spirit, tool or method are you loving right now? 

BN: One of my favorite producers right now is Laurent Cazottes, a French producer of natural eau-de-vie and liqueurs. His 72 Tomatoes is a tomato liqueur made from seventy-two varieties of tomato that has amazing depth of flavor, but every bottle I've tried has been something special.

BM: If you could grab drinks with anyone in the world right now, who would it be, where would it be, and what are you drinking?

BN: The where part is easy. I love the bar/restaurant scene in Montreal and New Orleans, so it would be in one of those cities. There is a long history of eating and drinking in those towns, and they know how to do it right. In New Orleans, I'd be drinking a 25 cent martini and turtle soup at Commander's Palace, followed by beers at The Saint. In Montreal I usually just drink a lot of wine. And if I had to choose someone to accompany me, it would be any one of my friends. They are far more interesting than any celebrity I could name here.

BM: What cocktail/bar trend would you love to see go away?

BN: I don't want to see any trend disappear entirely, but I would like for bars to recognize which trends work for their space. It feels like every dive bar in Brooklyn has a House Cocktail list with housemade infusions and syrups. If your clientele is drinking cheap beer and well whiskey, you don't need to be fancy. 

BM: Where can you be found post-shift, and what are you eating or drinking?

BN: After I leave Faun I can be found at Weather Up drinking High Life and Ron Zacapa. If I'm looking for food, I'll head to Walter's for a bar steak.

By Nicole Schnitzler

(Photos from left: Billy Nichols by Toralf Suemmchen; Badalisc Cocktail; Interior by Toralf Suemmchen)

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