When his American contemporaries were learning how to drive a car, Wallflower bartender Xavier Herit was balancing his days between restaurant school and various hospitality positions at Hotel Plaza Athenée in Paris. “I learned the hard way,” explains Herit, who admits to never being fond of school. “I came to understand hard work, respect, and the definition of hospitality.”The Plaza Athenée was where Herit first stepped behind the bar, and where he discovered his passion for this corner of the industry. Upon moving to New York, he worked behind the stick at Daniel and Experimental Cocktail Club before he helped to open Wallflower, where he offers a list of seasonally focused and balanced cocktails that call upon his culinary prowess more frequently than not (corn puree, anyone?). Here, we chat with the Paris native about the bourbon that he’s always stocking, the classic cocktail he reaches for post shift, and why he turns to the kitchen for constant inspiration.
BoozeMenus: How would you describe your approach behind the bar?
Xavier Herit: Once you are behind the bar, the show must go on. A good cocktail is based 50% on how good the cocktail is, and 50% on how much care and attention you give to the guest, the atmosphere of the bar, and the music. And consistency is one of the keys to success: Your cocktail should always taste the same!
BM: What lesson or piece of advice has stuck with you most throughout the years?
XH: It comes from the sense of hospitality that began to be instilled in me at restaurant school. There is an art to conversing from my side of the bar and it takes a while to be good at it. Never argue or debate with a guest — don’t talk about politics or religion, don’t try to prove your point if you know a customer is wrong. Most importantly, I derive a deep sense of satisfaction from knowing that every one leaves the bar satisfied and happy.
BM:What differences have you seen between the cocktail scene in Paris and in NYC?
XH: I left Paris 11 years ago; at that time, the good cocktail bars were mostly in the Palace Hotels, serving a lot of classic cocktails — or mojitos, margaritas, and pina coladas to visitors — but no one there was using the jigger. When I arrived in New York, I discovered how strong the cocktail culture was. Bars like Pegu Club, Milk and Honey, Flatiron Lounge, PDT and others have always been an inspiration to me.
BM: In your mind, what is a successful cocktail?
XH: A good cocktail is suited to the tastes and preferences of the person drinking it — it has the right balance (respect the measurement!), originality, and presentation and is served in good company!
BM: When is the last time a fruit/vegetable from the market or one of chef's dishes inspired one of your cocktails at the Wallflower?
XH: The kitchen is always an inspiration. A cocktail on our fall list, The Cornelia (reposado tequila, jalapeno-infused mezcal, lime, corn purée and basil oil) was inspired by the chilled corn soup with basil sorbet we had on Wallflower’s menu last summer (and I also tip my hat on this one to Nicolas de Soto at Experimental Cocktail Club NYC).
BM: What has been the most pivotal experience of your bartending career, to date, and why?
XH: There are two: The bar of the Plaza Athenée because it was my first big experience in a renowned cocktail bar, and Daniel Restaurant because Daniel Boulud and his team gave me a lot of trust and love and let me express myself. I have learned another form of hospitality by watching Chef Daniel interact with the guests; he knows how to truly make people fell comfortable. I also learned a lot by working closely with the kitchen, to use other kitchen ingredients and techniques behind the bar.
BM: Where do you find inspiration?
XH: Usually, what goes well together on the plate, goes well in a cocktail — without getting too experimental. For the past 11 years, I have always been watching the kitchen and some of the best bars in NYC. They are part of a continual inspiration for me.
BM: When you're not working, what is your go-to cocktail?
XH: Depending on the mood and where I am, I always like a good negroni. I am also the happiest man with a Tequila Ocho reposado neat, and a beer.
BM: What spirit (or bitters/liqueur) do you always stock at home?
XH: Brenckenridge Bourbon, El Dorado 12 yrs old, and a good stock of beers — I leave it to my wife to choose!
BM: How has your bartending style changed - or stayed the same - between your roles at such diverse establishments?
XH: I think the day the level of your cocktails stays the same and that you have nothing to learn anymore, is the day you are done. I always ask myself, “Is this cocktail well-balanced? How can it be improved?” I always take into consideration everybody‘s feedback. I have learned to listen better. I think I am an unsatisfied man — I always ask myself what else I can do to make a drink better, or what I can leave out.
BM: What is your favorite part about making drinks for others?
XH: When they ask for a second one!
By Nicole Schnitzler
(Photo Credit: Thomas Schauer)